Follow this guide to make one of these:

Introduction:

Before you start any of the steps listed below in creating your avatar creature you will need to research and develop a character from avatar. As you will find it easier to sculpt and paint if you have something to refer back to.

Also by researching other creatures that exist on earth and fantasy creatures and blending them together, you would get a feel of what creature you would like to create.

Avatar research (it would also be beneficial to watch the film again)

Earth creatures and organisms

Start of ideas

Chosen Idea which then has been drawn in different angles which is helpful when you need to sculpt and testing colour palette.

Scale drawing with some rough measurements.

What you will need to create you creature:

Tools and Materials: Wooden board, Clay, Wax sculpting tools, Milliput, Paint brushes, Water pot, Pin/nail, Thin sheet of strong plastic, Electrical tape, Overalls, flexible bucket/tub, Plaster, Wax, coin, Cling-Film, Hammer, Chisel, Masking tape, Cable ties, Wire (Armature), Staple gun (air), Latex, Parcel tape, Acrylic paint, Flexi foam, Scalpel, 30mm pair of eyes, 20-25 mm pair of eyes, smooth metal tray, Evo-stick, wire, Super sculpey, Sponge, Hot gleu gun, french enamel varnish paint, Clear rubber liquid, black Lycra, talcum powder, soap, Air brush, PVA glue, fluorescent paint.

Step 1 - You will need to find and use a smooth wooden board to sculpt your creature on. If you can't find a smooth wooden board paint it to smooth of all the grains.

Step 2 - You will need a pot of water for smoothing the clay and keeping it damp. Start sculpting a rough outline shape of your creature by referring to your design. By using Milliput create some half spheres for the eyes, you will need two at 30mm and two at 20-25mm for the smaller eyes.

Step 3 - To get the more detailed shapes and features use wax sculpting tools or clay tools.

Step 4 - to create the skin texture I used a hook shaped clay tool and was lightly dabbing it over the creature in the direction the skin would flow.

Step 5 - To stop the skin looking fluffy/furry use a paint brush and water and lightly brush across the surface to blend and smooth the ridges together. You can do this across the whole creature to make the appearance more life like and flowing.

Step 6 - To create the scratches in the skin and to give the skin more texture, lightly brush a pin/nail across the clay and then brush water over again to keep it smooth.

Step 7 - When you are pleased with your clay sculpt and ready for the next stage you will need to create a wall across your creature for the two part mould using strong but thin sheets of plastic which are taped together with electrical tape to hide gaps, so nothing can go through the wall. So you will need to push the plastic strips into your clay sculpt to prevent leakage. (this wall will later cause a seam to appear in the later stages thats why a thin sheet of plastic is best.)

Step 8 - Warning you will get messy in this part so wear old clothes or and overall. Once your wall is sealed and leak proof you will need to mix some plaster (it would be best if you had a flexible bucket/tub this helps when you have to tidy up) fill the bucket to the appropriate amount (depends on how large your creature is) with water and start adding plaster to the water and mixing with your hand, until your hand has a glove of plaster once pulled out but you can see spots of skin coming through (the picture below would need more plaster as you can see to much pink coming through.)

Flick some mixed watery plaster on to your clay sculpture as this will help get in to all the features on your creature, once covered in a thin layer of plaster tap the wooden board to remove any air bubbles.

Keep mixing until the plaster starts to set and go creamy.

Step 9 - Once the plaster is a thicker texture/feel start smothering over you sculpt, but do it quick as the plaster starts setting and make sure you reach up into all the areas of your sculpt. Let it set and cool.

Step 10 - When the plaster has cooled remove the plastic wall. Careful of the sculpt on the other side. Once removed clean up your clay sculpt and fill in the gaps where the wall once was with new clay and a paintbrush with water, to prevent plaster filling up unwanted gaps.

Step 11 - To stop the two plaster halves from sticking you will need to wax or put some release agent on the first side. Also by using a coin and twisting it around in the plaster wall, you will create a keyhole which will allow the the two halves to slot together easier in a later stage.

Step 12 - To stop plaster setting to the already set side add some cling-film over the edge. As this will be easy to remove later.

Step 13 - You will have to repeat the top stages to create the other plaster side.

Step 14 - Once the plaster has set and dried you will need a hammer and chisel to remove the plaster from the board. By placing the chisel at the base of the mould and lightly hammering the mould should crack along the bottom and you should be able to move the mould. Remove the Cling-film and clean up the seam with a chisel, so it will be easier to open.

Step 15 - To open the two sides you will have to use the chisel and hammer and place the chisel along the seam at the bottom of the mould and lightly hammer until a crack appears along the seam to be able to take it apart.

Step 16 - When the two parts have been taken apart carefully you will have to remove all the clay from the mould using clay tools that are quite dull/blunt.

Step 17- Use a paint brush to dust out all the clay and other bits to clean the mould. Before moving on to the next step allow the plaster mould to dry out from the clay by placing the two halves together to stop moulds from getting distorted.

Use masking tape and cable ties to hold together.

Step 18 - You will need your wooden board again if your creature has horns for sculpting. This horn will be two part moulded as well and will create two horns from one. First thing you will need before you sculpt the horn will be some strong wire (Armature) and you will need to staple/secure it to your board. Then bend the wire to your desired shape. Start sculpting with clay to your design like the creature above.

Step 19 - When your plaster mould has dried out separate the two halves and lay them down. Then using a brush paint a thin layer of latex over each part, as this will be a waste pull and clean you mould from any debris. Leave to dry.

Step 20 - Leave the horn to dry out slightly when happy with the sculpt until waxy to prevent damage when inserting the wall.

Step 21 - Once the latex has dried in the mould pull out the waste skin and check the mould is clean and you are happy to go on to the next step.

Step 22 - So repeat building a wall for the horn like you did for the creature and make sure there are no gaps etc.

Step 23 - The next stage is messy so again you will need overalls. You will be creating another two part mould so repeat the process you did for the creature for the horn.

Step 24 - Once you have completed the mould processes you will have to take the mould apart carefully with the hammer and chisel once again, then remove all the clay. Allow to dry and brush out dirt. Brush latex onto both sides to do a waste skin pull for the dirt etc. Wait for it to dry then remove the skins.

Step 25 - You are now ready to create the actual horns, so use some cable ties to secure the two mould halves together then along the seam gap start filling with clay to prevent leaks. Once clay has been applied start wrapping the mould in parcel tape as this will prevent the two halves moving and more leaks.

Step 27 - When you have secured the mould pour in coloured latex (use acrylic paints mixed in latex) and leave for 1 hour then pour out excess latex but keep hold of it for your next horn. Place the mould upside down to allow the excess latex to drain out to prevent the horn having areas that are thicker latex than the rest.

Step 28 - Once the latex has dried you will need to pour Flexi foam into the mould to allow the horn to be flexible and solid. The foam is measured 50/50. But once poured together mix quickly then pour into your mould and wait until the foam has gone hard and dry.

Step 29 - You will now have to remove the horn from the mould (be careful you will need this mould for the other horn). Once removed there is usually a seam which will have to be cut off, so using a sharp scalpel carefully cut away the excess as close as you can to the horn. Repeat what you did for this horn for the next.

Step 30 - Before you fix the creature two half mould together your will need to brush on the coloured latex on both halves like you did for the waste mould as this will make sure the latex has reached all the tight spots on your mould. Once you have done that fix the two parts together like you did for the horns mould.

Step 31 - Turn your mould upside down and place in a bucket to prevent movement and start painting latex along the seams, as this will stop leaks later on when you pour in more latex. It will also be neater.

Step 32 - When the coloured latex skin has dried pour in uncoloured latex and leave until required thickness (I left mine for 3 hours) then empty the mould (put latex that was not used back into container) and leave the mould upside down to drain out excess.

Step 33 - When the latex has dried, you will then have to pour expanding flexi foam measured at 50/50 like the horns into the mould and to let it expand to the top. and once dried remove the excess foam and take the creature out of the mould.

Step 34 - Again the excess latex seam will need to be removed as carefully as possible.

Step 35 - To hide the seams mix up some more coloured latex and brush over the seam blending in the edges, this will probably have to be repeated until you are happy the seam has been hidden.

Step 36 - Time to test out and add the eyes (do not glue in yet will be removed later) so using a sharp scalpel cut away the latex and foam and place the eyes in the position you are after.

Start carving out the foam in the neck and mouth as well as cutting out the latex from the mouth.

Step 37 - Pour coloured latex onto a large smooth metal tray, this will be creating the creatures crests.

Spray water over the latex as this will remove any air bubbles. Once this has dried remove carefully and sprinkle talcum powder over the whole of the latex to avoid it sticking to its self.

Step 38 - Time to attach the horns, to do this your will need some evo-stick (glue) and some thin latex (from the crest offcuts). Once the evo-stick has glued the horns on, to hide the seam cut a thin strip of latex out and glue it around the seam to hide it as well as help hold the horns.

Step 39 - Using wire bend and cut two halves to the correct shape of the lower jaw and top jaw then start sculpting until you are happy with them and cook at 130 degrees for 15mins and leave to cool.

Step 40 - Once the crest is dry cut out to the desired shape tape or pin in place and using the coloured latex paint on and hide the seams as well as holding it in place. Texturise the seam to hide the any joins.

Step 41- Sculpt the tongue in clay and use a sponge to create the texture. Once complete seal the tongue in a wall and seal up all gaps with clay and glue gun and then mix and pour in plaster, once dry remove the clay and and clean the mould. Pour in coloured latex and allow to thicken then drain away excess and allow to dry, then remove.

Step 42 - Using french enamel varnish paint a blue base coat on the teeth then once dry paint a black layer over the top. By painting coloured latex on the gums it will creature a more life like texture and feel.

Step 43 - Keep adding textures over the seams with latex to hide the joins as this will be hidden when painted. also by painting on some veins with latex will mean they have a slight rise to them and texture.

Step 44 - Paint white latex around the base of the teeth to hide any messy edges, this will also allow the teeth to stand out more.

Step 45 - When you are happy with the teeth paint a layer of clear rubber over the top to create a saliva look. (be careful of the fumes) allow to dry for 48 hours.

Step 46 - Sculpt the neurone out of clay then seal off into a box with clay and glue gun to prevent leaks, mix and pour in plaster up to half way then wait for it to set. Once set keyhole and wax the top surface then pour in more plaster. When dry take apart and remove the clay and clean out the mould.

Dry teeth (shiny)

Step 47 - Cut out thin latex to the shape of the mouth and pin in place then paint on coloured latex to hide and attach the seams.

Step 48 - Glue in the teeth using Evo-stick and again to hide the seams and to strengthen the join paint in more latex.

Step 49 - For the neurone mould secure together like the previous ones and pour in coloured latex wait for around 1 hour and remove the excess latex. Once dry use the expanding foam again and allow to dry (when the foam is setting insert a piece of wire this will allow the neurone to keep its shape later on) remove from the mould and trim off the excess latex seam, then repeat the process again to make another.

Step 50 - To hide the foam at the back of the puppet and to make it neater attach some black lycra or other stretchy material (evo-stick is holding the lycra on as well as latex hiding the seams)

Step 51 - To attach the neurone use the same technique I applied for the horns (use extra latex brushed on to create a texture and to hide join.) as well as poking the wire through the head slightly. As this will allow the neurones to hold better and won't flop.

Step 52 - You are now nearly ready to paint but before you do lightly clean the top surface of the creature with soap and sponge to remove all powder and plaster.

Step 53 - Once dry tape up and hide the teeth, as well as removing the eyes as a base colour is going to be air brushed across the complete thing so everything is seamless.

Step 54 - Mix up a base colour that you want as well as adding a small amount of PVA glue to give it grip. Then lightly air brush over the entire creature and do any touches ups if any areas are missed.

Step 55 - Once its completely dry remove the tape on the teeth and re-insert the eyes to the correct position and glue if necessary. You are now ready to paint your creature how every you like.

Feel free to make a stand if you want to display it some where.

Step 56 - Paint in progress. Details painted and blended as well as dry brushed. Once i have completed the painting I have added some fluorescent paint so under UV I can create a night scene.

Step 57 - When you are happy with the paint job, the last and final thing to do is to add more liquid clear rubber to all the areas that need to look wet as this will make your creature more life like. Leave for 48 hours to dry. You are then ready for pictures.